I did a lot of research before going to Bukit Lawang — mainly trying to figure out how to get there, how the trekking works, and most importantly how to do it in a way that actually aligns with my ethics.
I’d also read quite a bit about leeches (they do exist, but please don’t let that put you off!), and had a general sense that this might be one of those places that’s harder to figure out than it should be.
So I’ve put together everything I think is actually useful to know before you go — based on what it was like for me — so you can get a clearer idea of what to expect.
Getting there
The easiest way to get to Bukit Lawang is to fly into Medan.
We flew from Bali, but there are also connections from other parts of Indonesia, and if you’re coming from further away you’ll likely connect via Indonesia or possibly Malaysia.
From Medan, it’s about a 3.5–4 hour drive to Bukit Lawang. We arranged a private transfer through our guesthouse, which I’d recommend doing. It was simple, affordable (around £50 for two of us), and meant we didn’t have to think about logistics after arriving.
I’d read things online beforehand saying not to travel at night because the roads are bad, but we arrived late and did the journey in the dark with no issues at all.
On the way, we stopped in Medan at a Chinese vegan restaurant I’d found on HappyCow, LN Fortunate Coffee It ended up being a really good call — we had dinner there and stocked up on snacks for the journey (things like chocolate bread rolls and bits to take with us). The driver was happy to stop, and we bought him a meal too.
When you arrive in Bukit Lawang, you’ll be dropped at the road because the village itself is pedestrianised. From there, you walk in. It was raining when we arrived, but two guys from the guesthouse came to meet us, carried our bags, and led us through the village.
We got there around 10:30pm and everything was still open — we were given a drink and they cooked us food straight away — so arriving late isn’t an issue.
Where to stay
We stayed at Green Hill guesthouse, which is also where we booked our trek through.
It’s a simple, jungle-style place — wooden rooms, fans, mosquito nets — basic but exactly what you need. Ours had a small balcony, and the whole place is just a few steps from the river, with a really nice outdoor area where you eat. The bathroom and shower is outdoors, which I was very excited about, my partner not so much (but he did not mind at all when we were there). The shower was a pipe coming out from the wall, very rustic but worked as needed. Don’t worry, there was a high wall in fonrt of it so very private, and you could see the river and national park in front of you while showering! This was right up my street, you need to stay somewhere like this in Bukit Lawang, it’s all part of the experience, and an amazing price, but you can find places with a few more compfrots if this really isn’t your thing.
There are loads of macaques around the village, especially on the rooftops. We were woken up in the morning by banging on the roof, looked outside, and saw them running across above us. You’ll see them constantly around the village too.
Just don’t leave anything out on your balcony — they will try and get into it ( I know fgrom experience!), and it goes without saying not to feed them.
The main reason we chose Green Hill was because they focus on ethical trekking and understand vegan requirements properly. The owner is vegan, the staff get it, and the food was genuinely good.
I booked everything in advance, including the transfer and the trek. There are quite a few options in Bukit Lawang, and it can be a bit overwhelming to choose, so I did a lot of research beforehand.
Best time to visit
Most people will tell you the best time to visit is during the dry season (May–September).
I went in January, which is the wet season, and honestly it worked out really well. There were a couple of heavy downpours — one even happened while we were rafting — but it didn’t stop anything and if anything made it more memorable.
The jungle felt incredibly green and alive.
That said, there is a history of landslides in the area, so it’s something to be aware of during wetter months.
It’s easy to get caught up trying to plan everything around the “perfect” time to go, but realistically it’s better to just go than overthink it.
What to pack (what actually matters)
You don’t need loads, but a few things make a difference.
Lightweight clothing is key. You’ll want long sleeves and long trousers for both bugs and general protection in the jungle.
One thing that’s definitely worth bringing is long socks so you can tuck your trousers into them — it helps with leeches.
For shoes, we were told not to bother with hiking boots and that trainers would be fine. That’s probably true if that’s all you have.
But I already owned hiking shoes, so I brought them anyway, and I was glad I did. The extra grip helped a lot, especially on muddy sections.
So I wouldn’t go out and buy them just for this, but if you already have them, bring them.
Insect repellent is essential, but try to go for something natural and non-harmful to the environment — look for ingredients like citronella or eucalyptus rather than harsher chemical sprays.
It’s also worth bringing some snacks with you. Bukit Lawang does have vegan options, but it’s a small village and there aren’t loads of places to just grab things quickly.
What surprised me
I didn’t really know what to expect before arriving, and a few things stood out straight away.
The biggest one was the atmosphere. The whole place just feels calm, relaxed, and genuinely friendly. It’s small, easy to walk around, and you immediately feel like you’re somewhere completely different.
I also didn’t expect quite how many monkeys there would be. They’re everywhere — on rooftops, in the trees, around the village — and it becomes part of daily life there.
Looking out from the guesthouse across the river straight into the national park is also something that sticks with you. It’s one of those places that feels genuinely different.
The trek & orangutans
I’ve written a full breakdown of the trek I did — a two-day jungle trek with Green Hill — including what it was actually like and how to choose a company.
We saw multiple semi-wild orangutans during the trek in Gunung Leuser National Park.
Food (vegan)
There are a few places in Bukit Lawang listed on HappyCow, but we actually ended up eating at Green Hill the whole time, including during the trek.
For such a small village, there are definitely options.
You’re also in Indonesia, where things like tempeh are common, so a lot of dishes are either already vegan or easy to adapt.
If you stay somewhere like Green Hill, or even just eat there, you won’t have any issues.
Things I’d do differently
Honestly, just stay longer.
We were there for three nights including the trek, and it didn’t feel like enough.
If I had more time, I would have looked at spending longer in the jungle itself — doing a longer trek and getting further away from the main area. It felt like the further out you go, the more untouched and special it becomes, and you’d probably have a better chance of seeing fully wild orangutans.
But for the time we had, the two-day trek was a really good balance.
Final thoughts
If seeing orangutans in their natural habitat is something you’ve always wanted to do, Bukit Lawang is a great place to experience it. Make sure to do it ethically!
If you’re planning a trip and have any questions, feel free to leave a comment — I’m happy to share what I can.
